AHA, BHA and PHA: what's the difference?
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Exfoliation is a key step for radiant, flawless skin. But with AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs all being used, it can be difficult to know which to choose!
What are their benefits? Which one should you choose depending on your skin type?
🧪 AHA, BHA, PHA: definition and how they work
These three types of exfoliants are chemical acids that help remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture.
But their modes of action and benefits differ:
| Acid | Type of exfoliation | Ideal for |
| AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) | Surface exfoliation | Dry and dull skin |
| BHA (Beta-Hydroxy Acids) | Deep exfoliation | Oily and blemish-prone skin |
| PHA (Polyhydroxy acids) | Gentle exfoliation | Sensitive skin |
✨ 1. AHA: The ideal exfoliation for radiance
AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids) are water-soluble exfoliants that act primarily on the surface to remove dead cells and reveal a brighter complexion.
The most common AHAs :
- Glycolic acid : The most powerful, it stimulates cell renewal and boosts radiance.
- Lactic acid : Gentler, ideal for moisturizing and smoothing sensitive skin.
- Mandelic acid : Suitable for skin prone to imperfections and pigmentation spots.
🔎 For whom?
✅ Dry and dull skin that needs a boost of radiance.
✅ Skin with pigment spots or fine lines.
🚨 Warning : May be irritating to sensitive skin. Always apply sunscreen after use!
🛁 2. BHA: The Anti-Imperfection Exfoliant
BHAs (Beta-Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble, meaning they can penetrate pores to dissolve excess sebum and prevent blackheads . 🔹 The most well-known BHA :
- Salicylic acid : A star ingredient for oily and blemish-prone skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.
🔎 For whom?
✅ Oily and blemish-prone skin.
✅ Skin prone to blackheads and enlarged pores .
🚨 Warning : May be drying. Use with good hydration.
🌿 3. PHA: Gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) are next-generation exfoliants, gentler than AHAs and BHAs. Their larger molecular structure prevents them from penetrating too deeply into the skin, thus reducing the risk of irritation. 🔹 The most common PHAs :
- Gluconolactone (or gluconic acid): Gently exfoliates while moisturizing the skin.
- Lactobionic acid : derived from lactose, an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from aging.
🔎 For whom?
✅ Sensitive and reactive skin.
✅ Skin prone to dehydration or redness.
🚨 Bonus : Suitable even for people suffering from rosacea or eczema!
🏆 Which acid should you choose according to your skin type?
| Skin type | Recommendation |
| Dry & dull skin | AHA (lactic acid, glycolic acid) |
| Oily and acne-prone skin | BHA (salicylic acid) |
| Sensitive & reactive skin | PHA (gluconolactone) |
💡 Tip : You can also combine acids according to your needs. For example, an AHA for radiance + a BHA to purify pores !
Precautions and usage advice:
✔ Start slowly : 2 to 3 times a week before increasing the frequency.
✔ Moisturize your skin well after application.
✔ Always wear SPF during the day, especially with AHAs which make the skin more sensitive to the sun
Find the exfoliation that's right for YOUR skin 💜
AHA, BHA, or PHA—each acid has its own unique benefits! Choose the one that best suits your needs for brighter, smoother, and blemish-free skin, or opt for a product with multiple exfoliating acids to combine their benefits!