Retinol: a miracle ingredient?
Long controversial, today everyone wants to incorporate it into their routine. But what is this active ingredient?
Lyssa Select gives you some details.
Retinol is a type of retinoid derived from Vitamin A. It is considered a miracle ingredient for combating the signs of aging (wrinkles, fine lines) and sagging skin. It is also used to exfoliate the skin and minimize pores. Be careful to use it correctly!
The different types of retinol
Retinol belongs to the retinoid family, derived from Vitamin A, which helps with cell renewal. There are different types:
Retinoic acid: available by prescription, it is biologically active. It is found, for example, in Roaccutane®, a treatment for severe acne. It presents the greatest risk of skin irritation, therefore it is not used in over-the-counter cosmetics.
Retinol: available without a prescription, it is approximately 20% weaker than retinoic acid. Retinol-based cosmetics contain molecules that can be converted into retinoic acid at the cellular level. Therefore, it has the same functions but takes much longer to produce the same results. As a result, there is less risk of skin irritation.
Other pro-retinols exist, which are gentler, but with results that take longer to appear and are less effective.
How does it work?
Retinol works both on the surface and deep within the skin. On the surface, it stimulates cell renewal and exfoliates dead cells. Retinol also works deeper by penetrating the different layers of the skin. It boosts the production of new cells, collagen, hyaluronic acid, and fibroblasts, which are responsible for maintaining healthy skin.
Don't panic, it's not just for mature skin. Skin aging is estimated to begin around age 20 (decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid, elastin and collagen + environmental factors such as pollution, UV rays, tobacco, alcohol, stress...).
From the age of 20-25, one can start using progressive retinol to avoid the appearance of the first wrinkles (a treatment with 0.1% retinol is preferable).
How? We start with 1 day out of 3 for two weeks, then 1 day out of 2 for the following two weeks, and if all goes well, we can move on to daily use.
Remember to moisturize your skin well before and after using retinol, for example with a hyaluronic acid-based product. Using retinol can dry out and/or dehydrate your skin.
The benefits
Anti-aging: It improves cell renewal by boosting collagen production. This restores firmness and elasticity to the face, while smoothing wrinkles and fine lines. Skin texture is improved, and its exfoliating action combats dark spots. Retinol helps achieve a radiant and even complexion.
Sebum regulator and blemish corrector: Thanks to its exfoliating action, it unclogs pores and regulates sebum production. By improving skin texture, pores are tightened and blemishes are reduced.
Not just for the face! Retinol-based cosmetics also have benefits for the hair:
Many impurities clog pores and prevent healthy hair growth. Retinol exfoliates dead skin cells on the scalp and promotes cell renewal. Studies have demonstrated retinol's ability to promote hair growth.
Disadvantages
Retinol is photosensitizing. This means it increases the skin's sensitivity to sunlight. Because retinol removes dead skin cells from the surface, it thins the epidermis, making it more sensitive to UV rays. This can cause dry skin, tingling, discomfort, peeling, tightness, redness, and other side effects.
Retinol is therefore not recommended for sensitive and reactive skin. It is best to perform a skin patch test (for example, on the wrist; if you experience a burning sensation, avoid applying it to your face!).
It's normal to experience some mild, tolerable redness when you first start using retinol. Always begin by acclimating your face with a low-dose product and gradually increase the concentration.
To avoid unwanted effects on the skin, it's best to use retinol in the evening, before going to bed. (And that's no reason to forget to apply your sunscreen every morning!).
Due to its powerful action, retinol is not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
What if the skin is irritated and reacts badly to retinol?
Always start with a cream or serum with a low percentage of retinol! And to avoid the risk of skin reaction, it is advisable to give your skin time to get used to it.
If you experience a severe reaction, moisturize your skin well and consider consulting a dermatologist. Avoid mixing this product with other exfoliating agents to prevent further irritation.
Discover Some By Mi's Retinol skincare products: HERE
